For those of you who did not want to hang the H/ball and wanted a stand for it instead...here is the DIY info on making one...
A simple PVC stand for the Hoopball
If you're interested in making a stand for the Hoopball or adapting this stand for other uses, this will be helpful, if not, then this post will be lonnnnnnng and borrrrring.
This particular size stand is made for the super extra large size 28 inch diameter Hoopball. The size can be adjusted down for smaller h/balls. The thinking behind the size of this stand was the h/ball was 28" in diameter, skirts on normal cages stick out 6 inches from cage on all sides, so I was shooting at a size of 40 inches so I could put a droppings catcher on it to keep the area clean and neat looking. The droppings catcher will be added later…for right now I will cover the making of the stand, hanging the h/ball with a anti-climbing device (ceiling guard) on top so the bird will not be tempted to try to climb to the top of the stand.
To make the stand, you will need ...
All these PVC parts and pipe are for 1 inch ID (inside diameter) pipe.
1-4 way connecter fitting
8-45 degree angle fittings
12-T fittings
5-10 foot lengths of 1 inch ID PVC pipe
and One 1/4 inch diameter eyebolt and a self locking nut.
As far as the expense for this stand project goes, the pvc parts should be around 28.00 all total. If you need glue, buy the smallest can possible and it will be around three dollars. Of course the pvc cutter tool is around ten dollars and worth it.
OK, lets get started.
Description and info about the picture will be "below" the picture.
This pic shows the 4 way connecter, the 45 degree angle fittings, some of the tee's, eyebolts, nuts, self-locking nuts, S-hooks (the s-hooks and some of the eyebolts and self locking nuts in the picture are for the d/catcher which will be added later) and of course, my PVC pipe cutting tool (cost is around 10 bucks) buy one , it's worth it's weight in gold, cuts PVC pipe like it was butter.
The 4 short 1 & 3/4 inch long pieces of pipe you see on the left side of the upper row of stuff is some I precut.
This pic shows the 5 pieces of PVC pipe you will need. (The black and grey cats are optional.) PVC pipe comes in 10 foot lengths, sometimes it's a tad bit longer or in this case, they are an inch or so short of 10 foot.
This pic shows the 4 way connector with a short 1 & 3/4 inch long piece of pipe in each of the 4 holes. I use a short piece of 2x4 to tap the pipe in all the way, you can use whatever you have... a hammer etc. You will also see the four 45 degree fittings you will put on also.
45's installed....pic of the top
Pic of the bottom
This pic shows the 4 way set up along with the four pipes that will go into it. The 4 pieces of pipe were cut out of a single piece of 10 foot pipe. The length of the pipe was a little short of ten foot so each of the 4 pieces came out to be 29 & 3/4 inches long.
Install the pipes in the 4 way. Tap them all the way in. The four 45's laying there will go on next.
Install the 45's at this angle, tap them on to make sure they seat good. The angle is not all critical, you can move them some later if they are a little off.
This is the completed cathedral type top of your stand. The reasoning behind making an angled top, other than it looking good, is that your bird will be less enticed about the concept of wanting to go up there to sit because there is no flat place to sit comfortably.
This pic is of the 8 upright vertical leg parts. Cut each piece 29 inches long. This will consume two lengths of 10 foot pipes with some short ends left over. Save the ends, you will need them later.
This pic shows how you will place the 8 Tee's on the pipes...4 are placed in opposing positions with the bottom four all angled straight up. (placement of black cat is optional) Tap the pipes into the fittings to properly seat them.
Now, out of your remaining pipes, you need to cut 6 pipes 38 inches long.
This pic shows the placement of 2 of the 38 inch pipes into the leg pieces. Tap to make sure they are tight.
Now add your next two 38 inch pipes to the legs to make the square frame as pictured above.
This pic shows your remaining two 38 inch pipe along with the 4 Tee's you have left. You will need to cut four 1 & 3/4 inch long pipes to put these parts together. Tap to seat them.
They will look like this when together.
Turn the pieces up with the short pipe stubs facing up so you can connect them into the bottom of the other Tee's that are there. Tap to seat.
Before you add the top, drill a 1/4 inch hole in the bottom of the 4 way connector and add your eyebolt with a regular nut. Then put your self locking nut on top of that so it doesn’t back off and turn loose. (The self locking nut has not been added as yet in the picture.)
Install the top, tap to make sure it is seated all the way.
This is what you will need for your anti-climbing device....same thing as a ceiling protector and so forth.
One piece of 2 inch pipe a minimum of 18 inches long for macaws. Smaller and shorter can be used for smaller fids. One piece of two inch pipe, 2 end caps, a eyebolt and nuts for each end with self locking nuts.
Be sure and use self locking nuts on top of the regular nuts or the nut will back off and come loose as they play on it and the h/ball will drop with possible tragic results for your fid/s.
Note...When drilling the holes in the end caps or anywhere else on PVC, drill a small pilot hole first, like a 1/8 inch one and then drill your larger hole.
This picture above shows where you should place the PVC glue for safety of the fids. Put the glue only in the back of the hole in the fitting and put the pipe in "immediately" as the glue will set in seconds. You have to hold the pipe in place for at least 30 seconds or else the glue will push it back out some. You apply the glue to the back part only so there is no glue on the outside of the parts for the fids to get to. You will probably only need to glue the caps onto the anti climbing device (ceiling protector) as it will have downward pull and the end caps could come off allowing the h/ball to drop. You can avoid the glue by using screws to hold the caps on. Screws work fine unless you have fids like mine who will work at those screws until they get them out.
Use PVC glue outside and "away" from your fids as the fumes are "toxic" until it has out gassed and dried completely. I let my parts dry for 24 hours before bringing them back in the house. They are safe for birds "after" the glue is completely dry.
If you would like to put the anti-climbing device together without using any glue, you could drill some small pilot holes through the caps around the sides and put screws through the caps into the pipe to hold it together securely. I would suggest four screws spaced evenly around each cap to hold them on.
If you are going to install rollers on the bottom of your stand, you will need to glue the support bars into the tee's so it won't pull apart when you pull on it to move it around.
H/ball in place hanging from anti-climbing device.
I use small locks as connecters on my stuff as my fids will tear up anything else.
Tha...tha...that's all folks!!!
Seeya.............................James