Cages.... What should you look for in a cage?

[Kevin]

I rn across http://www.cagesbydesign.com and started to drool at some of the really sweet setups...

What sort of things should people look out for when buying cages.


When I had my flcok of tiels I had a 3 smaller cages for days when it was cold and iwould bring them inside, and or when it got pretty windy... I built the outdoor aviary myself with 2 x 4's and wire mesh... Lets just say the aviary wasnt gonna go anywhere and migh as well been fort knox with the materials i used to make sure possums and coons couldnt compromise the wire, even had a safty door/ safe area.

[Monica]

The cages by design site, the setups are quite lovely, though I really wonder for WHOM were they built?? For the birds (as in our case, reptiles being the other option) or for us???

I think the major thing for looking into buying a cage for a bird is a cage designed FOR the bird, NOT for us! That means no fancy hotel or house for finches, no 5' x 6' x 5' cage for one budgie (like they have with betas... they have no life or personality if they can't move around to show it!), and that ESPECIALLY means no small cages that are very tall (most birds can't fly vertically, neither do ostriches and emus run vertically... i mean, if they CAN run vertically, then why are they still on the ground???)...

[The Outlaw]

When buying cages, one needs to be very species specific. A perfectly good cage for a large macaw might be deadly to a smaller bird who could easily get a head caught between the bars and brake a neck. Its like every other thing in life. Size does matter Secondly, quality is very important. The cage must be made of a safe metal and if painted, the paint, should it be removed, must also be safe. Flaking paint with zinc and lead chips has killed many a bird and devasted many a family.

Ease of use is the next factor. If its too hard to clean, you simply won't do it often enough. Sooner or later, the bird suffers. So, you need to understand that its WORTH paying a little more for bigger doors, sturdy wheels,quality grates, seed trays and outside food bowl access. Again, if you have an aggressive bird and have to go into the cage to do something so routine as picking up food and water dishes, you won't do it often enough and the net result is a sick bird. I'd much rather pay an extra $100 for a better, safer product than the $300 plus for a typical avian vet visit.

The welds must be strong, the catches and locks must be birdproof and the added features must make sense. Here's an example of what I mean by that: I have 2 huge macaw cages with little "balconies" that flip down.These are over the cage door. If I have my birds outside the cage while I'm inside the cage, its quite easy for them to push the cage lock and drop that same balcony on my head. Its actually happened to me and I thought I was going to pass out when it did. It also occured to me that the same feature would have killed another bird had they been perched on the top of the cage door. My birds never really used it anyway. They prefer to go the next 10 inches higher and play with the catches. So, I now have had to completely disable this feature with chains securely wrapped through cage bars and held together with links. I paid extra for a feature that made no real sense and was inherintly dangerous to boot.

Good quality crocks are another consideration. I have big birds and tend to think along those lines. I actually prefer the stainless steel bowls over the long haul. I still have every single one I've ever purchased and use them on a daily basis. I once had 12 large ceramic crocks and within a 6 month period, the birds had managed to toss them and destroy 6 of them. I think I paid $10 to $12 a piece from them so I think you can see my point. A playful macaw can lift stuff you'd never dream they could if they want to soak you badly enough.

I have 2 cages that are extras here that have been reconditioned. That means I've stripped them to raw metal and repainted them. They look fine now, but could not hold up with daily use. Bird beaks and claws quickly strip paint from metal. My powder coated cages are easy to clean and look great. However, not all powder coated cages are created equal. When that stuff chips, you can't just spot re-touch. Its really a plastic coating process not a true paint at all. Having a cage re-coated is always cost prohibitive. If I had it all to do again, I'd invest in stainless steel cages. In fact, I am currently in the process of replacing one cage a year and selling my used cages to help defray costs. They are safe, durable and easier to clean.

And, finally, color. Ideally, you want your cage to display the BIRD at its best. Using white will usually draw the eye away from the bird and to the cage. Black and green seem to display them better, IMHO. After all, most birds live in very green or dark surroundings.

Last but not least is a break-down feature. You just never know where your cage will wind up next. Every new bird causes the re-arrangement of all the birds to accomodate their cages. Make sure your cages can fit through openings easily. I have two cages that I literally had to build in the rooms they are in because they would not pass through normal door openings, even after removing doors from hinges and even door trims!

As for Cages By Design, they are beautiful, but they are evolving. I've already seen many upgrades and changes over the last 3 years. I think I'd wait a few more before I actually placed an order until they get all the bugs out of their designs. They still look difficult to clean to me. JMHO

THE OUTLAW

[Tiki]

I have alsways heard that cages should be big enough so the bird has at least a few wingspans to fly around in. I reluctanctly have 3 female tiels in a large patio aviary so they won't breed with the males here is a pic. The amonbird room is a converted former verandah that had been built in by previous owners. It s still pretty airy and I leave the window open with crimsafe security dcreens on the windows (do you have that brand in the US?) Security is very important because even if you have the best cage you should still let your birds out for exercise and bonding time with you. I keep lots of toys and natural branches in there for them to chew on-no bored birds here!

[Kevin]

poor girls, they need love tooo

[Tiki]

Oh right, make me feel guilty! :oops: I do let them out to play and exercise but not with the boys because they go crazy and fight with each other over the girls. They get plenty of love from ME-just can't have any more babies. I am not the sort who could sell them and otherwise I would end up with 200 cockatiels! :shock:

[Stacey32]

I have an acrylic cage and am very happy with it.
I like it because it is
easy to clean, there are no bars to look through, and bindy can still climb around as there are slits cut into it at appropriate intervals. I do have a barred cage as well, but that's either at my moms for back up, or at the cabin in the summers. What are "powdered" cages. I've been hearing it mentioned a lot in the threads. Are those different than stainless steel cages?

[peeker]

Stainless steel cages are shiny silver and don't need to be painted. They wont rust and are bird safe. Pwdercoating refers to a durable finish paint that is sprayed and then baked on at high temps.
Does that help?
Christy

[The Outlaw]

Powder coating is a resin paint that is heat bonded to the cage material and forms a rust proof, easy to clean coating.

THE OUTLAW

[Monica]

This isn't about about powder coated cages, but you can get the idea...
http://cage.rti.org/altern_data.cfm?...r&cat=Gen_Info

Here is a site talking about different wire and coatings used on cages, probably more informative for what you may be looking for
http://www.forthebirdsdvm.com/cagemade.htm