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Hi,
I've just joined this forum a few minutes ago - and this is my first post... I'm also part of an excellent forum called grey forums (www.greyforums.net); which is a lot to do with African Grey Parrots, who are notorious for feather plucking - if you have a look at that website and search 'feather plucking' you will find heaps of info to assist you. Even though a lot of the topics are about African Greys, the info still holds true to any other bird, because the principals are the same. Good luck! |
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Thanks for taking her in and doing research on ways you can help her. It sounds like you do have a hurdle when it comes to removing attention for unwanted behavior. Training incompatible behaviors is a good start (e.g.,teach her to shred toys instead of her own feathers). I'd only caution about teaching non-prop behaviors (like a foot wave) because this can quickly turn into a begging behavior (i.e., your bird is waving her foot in the air 24/7 trying to get rewards).
In the clicker training group I belong to, they recommend teaching at least 3 prop behaviors before any tricks that don't require a prop. That's because the first tricks a bird learns tend to be their strongest behaviors and the ones they resort to when they don't know what else to do to get your attention/rewards. If you teach prop-dependent behaviors first, they can't perform the trick unless you make the prop available (i.e., you are in the middle of a training session). For example, the first tricks I taught Stewie were: touch the target stick, put a ball in a cup, retrieve a plastic ring. He now does all sorts of non-prop behaviors on cue, but he won't just do them without being asked. Trick training is great for helping to modify all types of behaviors, especially very smart animals because it gives them things to think about and process, so it helps alleviate boredome. That sort of mental enrichment has positive effects even when you're not in the middle of a training session. Providing a lot of foraging options helps too. In the wild, birds spend most of their waking hours looking for food. In captivity, they have it provided in a bowl right in front of them, so no wonder they're bored. A lot of bird owners I know actually make their birds forage for the majority of their food. It helps them use their minds and get a lot of restless energy out when they actively have to look and work for their food. There are a ton of different type of foraging/puzzle toys you can buy, but just wrapping treats in scraps of newspaper is a fast, easy foraging idea that doesn't cost any money. You can also thoroughly wash and dry some small, hard rocks/pebbles and put them in the food bowl with your birds pellets and force her to pick around them or move them out of the way. Good luck. Please keep us updated on your progress.
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![]() ------------------------------------------- Mika, White Capped Pionus | Stewie, Sun Conure ------------------------------------------- Best in Flock parrot blog Featured posts: - Parrot Dominance - A False Construct - How Loud is a Screaming Sun Conure? - Clicker Training Misconceptions - Parrots Never Bite for "No Reason" - Clicker Training for Birds - Book Review |
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There is a great DVD called "captive foraging" and you can look up parts of it on youtube. You are doing a great thing and I am so glad you do not do the lights out and leave thing - that is actually not a time out but a punishment. You were smart to realize this and change it.
It has to be all positive all the way - no aversives or focussing on things you do not like which is super hard. I have a feather picker also whose behavior is set in after years in a facility. I know she is behaviorally much better now except for the occasional plucking. One thing that works for me is to give her rope perches which she shreds - I just have to change them all the time but it is worth it. Good luck! You are doing a great thing. |
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